Part II: Surfing in
BalealHappy Easter! This year my Easter Sunday was spent on my journey back to Strasbourg. I woke up today to the crashing of waves over the reef outside of my window. As I lay there with my bright red face and
raccoon eyes I toyed with the idea of the catching another half hour session before I had to leave. I decided against it as the wind blew the
sounds of the waves and brisk morning air into my room. Instead, I laid in bed and reviewed my weekend of surf,
Baleal style.
I arrived in
Peniche, a small community about 10 minutes from
Baleal (a smaller city), by bus. One of the owners of the
Surf Castle in
Baleal,
Joao picked up me up and filled me in on the history of the Surf Castle on our short trip to
Baleal. The Surf Castle was converted fr

om his
family's summer home over the last year and this was its first weekend in operation. There were 5 of us staying there including a guy from Hawaii (
Huls Sage) who was surfing in the
Rip Curl Pro competition this weekend. The competition 'headquarters' was on the other side of the Surf Castle's property line and the first spot they wanted to surf was the reef break in front of the Surf Castle. After a bust of a surf day on Friday with small surf and high on shore winds the competition had been cancelled Friday. Once we arrived at the castle I was introduced to the other owner Pedro who put off a TV interview to show me to my place for the weekend. Upon walking in I was introduced to Sage (the pro surfer) and a few local friends of the owners. I threw my bag into my room and we all headed to the beach bar for a couple drinks and a seafood dinner.
I turned in at a decent hour, awaiting what the projected pick up in swell and dying down of winds were to actually be in the morning. I awoke at the break of dawn (literally, I forgot to set my clock back an hour!) to see the pirate flag above the castle perfectly still. I threw on the wetsuit, grabbed the 7'8'' board the camp provided me and headed down to the beach. The board was about a foot longer than I'm used to, but with 4 months of no surf behind me and barely working out (thank you
ISU) it was perfect fit and made catching waves much easier. Although once I stood up I really missed my Lost sitting unused back in
Hermosa. A short walk down to the beach and I was ready to dip my toes back into the Atlantic for the third time since I arrived in Strasbourg in September. As I did so I was quickly reminded that it was still April by the bone chilling water, not to mention the cool morning air that surrounded me.
The waves were great with slight off shore winds helping hold the face just a few seconds longer. The waves were a little on the small side, rarely pushing the chest high level.

But sometimes size doesn't matter when you are sitting staring at peaky little beach breaks with rights and lefts just peeling one by one in front of you. The paddle out was easy and without a hair on my head wet I sat waiting for my first wave. As I saw my first gem come rolling in I turned and paddled away. The wave sucked me right in and I popped right up, although a second later from front foot just slid right off of the board and I fell ungracefully into the water. So much for that dry hair! For the next hour and a half I rode wave
after wave until pure exhaustion set in and my stomach ached for some food.
I walked back up to my 'bungalow' and found a note from
Joao saying there was some breakfast pastries in the kitchen and some juice in the fridge. Perfect. After filling the void in my
stomach I warmed up with quick shower and washed off that forgotten sticky feeling of dried

salt water. With a rest badly needed I set out to find the new location of the surf competition. It had been moved a few miles down the road to a place called
Supertubos,
Portugals version of Hawaii's Pipeline. On good days this beach break throws out barrels on every wave, and on bad days it still throws out consistent tubes to get caught in. I started the walk down the road and a guy I met the night before at the Surf Castle, Kidd, saw me and pulled over to give me a lift.
We arrived only to hear Sage had just finished and had lost his heat. He placed 3rd, but only the first 2 advance (out of 4). After reviewing the scores once I got home I noticed that the 2 winners of his heat had the highest scoring of the weekend, tough break. I sat around
Supertubos for a couple hours watching the mainly European surfers tackle the head high and fast left and rights popping out in front of the judging booth. Feeling motivated and
reenergized to get back into the water I attempted to
hitchhike a ride back to the castle form the parking lot. With no success I decided a couple mile run was in order and took advantage of the nice sunny day. With a quick lunch i headed back to the beach for the day.
Mid afternoon the winds had kicked in and the waves were sloppy. I headed out

anyway; when the purpose of the weekend is to surf you tend to do so regardless of conditions. The rides were still good and plenty of corners still available. An hour of paddling in and out I found myself needing another break. I headed to shore to rest up, meanwhile the winds were still blowing and the clouds had moved in. It was a bit chilly, but wrapping myself up I laid on my board and dosed in and out of sleep for the next hour or so.
Once I felt my arms had recovered I decided to take the 3rd session of the day. The winds were dying down and the waves were getting a little bigger as the tide moved in. I paddled out and spent the next hour fighting crowds of beginner surfers. Exhaustion seemed to set in earlier this time, maybe I was riding more waves or maybe I was just weak. Either way I came in for one more break so I could catch the dusk session. I took another nap only to wake up this time to calm off shore winds and no clouds, a quite sudden change in conditions. Wave had picked up in size again to consistent chest high waves, not getting much more than shoulder high at times. It must have been a little gift from above as this was probably my last session until I get to visit
Hermosa again in mid-June. This last session was by far the best. Perfect sized set waves coming in at shoulder height just beyond the typical break point.
Conveniently if you wait for the second wave the first would clear out all the beginners just behind me leaving an open take off zone!
My energy levels expired before the sun so I returned home to get into some dryer

and warmer clothes in attempt to catch my last beach sunset for the next couple months. I passed on an offer to join the owners and some of their friends for a drink on the patio of the castle and made it down to the sand just in time to see this blazing orange disc in sky slip between the cliffs of a small island and the peninsula of
Baleal. At one point it
seemed that the cliffs stuck out like an arm embracing the sun as it dropped closer to the sea.
With the sun below the horizon form which today's waves came I decided to

stick around on the beach to enjoy the calmness the sunset always leaves behind. I found a rock to sit on and gazed out over the ocean and the colorful sky above. To the tunes of jack Johnson's "F-Stop Blues" in one ear and the sounds of waves crashing in the other I sat quiet and admired the beauty of what our creator had made. I reminisced of the many days of doing the same thing in my last two years in
Hermosa. As hectic as things get sometimes, I seem to never miss the chance to catch the sunset when I'm around the beach. It brings to me a settling calmness to evening that makes me forget any stresses of the day, at least for a little while.
My night in
Baleal was as simple as the
previous with a seafood dinner, a couple drinks, and an early bedtime. As I sat home reading my pricey
English magazines form the airport I quickly dozed off. Of the 3 magazines I read this weekend 2 were about global warming and one of surfing. Global warming, its a popular phrase but an issue that has become interesting to me in the last year or so and I've immersed myself in reading about it and the energy problems that relate to it.
I woke up Sunday morning and said adios to my bungalow mates and
Joao drove me to the bus station. With a casual styled hand shake and a smiling face from a great weekend of surf culture we said good bye. It sounds odd to mention that, but Pedro and
Joao were great to me all weekend and cupped me right into their friend circle the second I got there. We bonded over beer, surf, and seafood and it created a
genuine experience for me as a lone traveler.
I leave my entry with the boarding of the bus. As I
foresee (and can now
confirm) that nothing exciting will happen on my travels from
Baleal, to
Peniche, to Lisbon, to Frankfurt, and finally to Strasbourg. My surf weekend really ends here too so I feel its a fitting breaking point. Another epic weekend of surf for me, as short as it was. It took care of that itch I've had since the day I returned form
Santander to go surf. Lets see if I can last till June now.
Surfing is such a new aspect of my life, but for some reason I've gotten addicted. Maybe its the relaxed atmosphere that surrounds it, or the oneness I feel with the ocean as you read every move it makes, or the ability to isolate myself from everyone and still be happy. However, one common theme I see is that it seems every great surf adventure I have had (
Baja Mexico, Heavens in California,
Santander in Spain, and now
Baleal) leaves me in admiration of the oceans in front of me and extremely thankful of the life of which I live. I suppose being reminded of my maker and how great of a life He has given me is not such a bad way to enter back into the realities of my every day life.